Why is there Canon 7D?

It is difficult to compare the 7D series with the 6D, 5D and / or 1D series, as the main features differ (yes, that's why there are three full-frame series). The 7D (series) compares well to the 1D (series) burst rate (and resolution is similar as well) but has a lower resolution than a 5D Mark III or IV (and of course 6D). The AF coverage is impressive compared to all other cameras because it uses the high-quality AF mode, which is also used for the more expensive full-frame cameras. It has a very good weather sealing. All this, along with the relatively low price, makes it an attractive camera not only for prosumers but also for professionals. Canon usually knows what they are doing, and since the 7D has not been scrapped, but replaced by the Mark II, the 7D series seems to work well.

Also, cropping can be very useful (with good lenses – and no, there are more good lenses than just L-Lenses!). I have a 70-300mm lens and it's way too wide for a medium-sized full-size concert hall, while APS-C is perfect. Why do not you buy a 150-600mm (or a primer), you ask? Because it is heavy and clunky and costs a lot of money.

Low Light – upgrade path for indoor sports photography from 7D + Samyang 85mm 1: 1.4 MF lens

If you make the most of what you already have, you can only improve your results if you improve your knowledge, skills, technique and experience.

The rest of this answer is devoted to the recording of still images, since the video part is explicitly no longer an issue here. Keep in mind that the 7D does not have a continuous AF area during video recording. The answer to the use of videos is therefore completely different. It would be much better if you check video.stackexchange.com for video footage in this situation.

The entire development of autofocus technology in the last 30 years has been driven by the desire to use it for shooting sports and action with greater accuracy and consistency. Sure, it's nice for other applications, but AF technology was always about sport / action. It was there that the benefits were first achieved, which can then be transferred to other forms of photography.

If you want to shoot sports or action in a low-light environment, you usually use the widest aperture that gives acceptable image quality. This allows shooting with a lower ISO sensitivity than would be the case with a very narrow aperture. The noise reduction required when shooting in a dark environment with very high ISO values, such as: ISO 6400 with the Canon APS-C 7D, reduces the image details so that the entire image appears blurred anyway, even if it is recorded with f / 11. Also note that for 7D full-resolution pictures, the diffraction-limited aperture (DLA) for the 7D is f / 6.9. From f / 11, you can probably begin to see the details that reduce the diffraction effects, even if the image is displayed below 100%.

The 7D has a very configurable AF system. It takes some work and practice to learn how to make full use of it. As with any complex tool, the more options available to the user, the more skills the user must use to leverage those options. It is not the most consistent AF system in terms of image-to-image accuracy, but it is good enough that many photographers have managed to take good action shots.

Action shot
Canon EOS 7D + EF 70-200 mm 1: 2.8 L IS II, ISO 2500, 1: 2.8, 1/400 sec.

Action shot
Canon EOS 7D + EF 70-200 mm 1: 2.8 L IS II, ISO 1600, 1: 2.8, 1/200 sec.

If you get the desired field of view with the 85 mm focal length, you should consider an AF lens such as the EF 85 mm 1: 1.8. It's a pretty popular "budget" lens for shooting indoor sports. At f / 2.2-2.8, use this setting with the shutter speed you can achieve depending on the subject's motion, and set the ISO value to the value required for proper exposure. Depending on your post-capture workflow, you can use the power of image processing to get faster shutter speeds than you would otherwise.

For further reading:

When should I upgrade my camera body?
Should I upgrade my Canon housing or lens for upcoming trips?
After 2 years amateur photo buy a new body or a great lens?
Which lens for portraits with an APS-C camera?
Should I first improve my body or my lens?
Choice of lenses Canon 70-200 f2.8L IS II and Canon EF 70-300mm 1: 4-5,6L IS USM
Should I buy a new DSLR with my Point & Shoot or spend the money on a photography course?
What is better than a Canon d1100, but still affordable? (The accepted answer to this page contains numerous links to other related questions that may be helpful in understanding how the photographer contributes to the quality of an image, and also acknowledges that sometimes part of the equipment can be part of the problem .)
Can you take great pictures with equipment that is not that good?
Does a better lens help with fast skateboard shots?
Why are my photos not crisp?
How can I diagnose the cause of the focus problem in a camera?
I have trouble getting sharp pictures when I take a picture of a concert from a press pass
This answer contains a variety of links grouped by root cause, and other questions that address various issues that affect image sharpness.
Much noise in my ice hockey pictures. What am I doing wrong?
Blown out blue / red light, so photos appear blurry

Or you could completely change the system because you misused the wrong lens for what you want to capture.

canon – Do 7D owners have these problems?

I am on my second 7D Body this week and both have the same repeatable problems. I have no idea why, so hopefully other 7D owners could step in to say if they've experienced the same things.
All pictures are taken in RAW and processed via DPP:
The first issue concerns a general softness of the image as if a soft soft highpass filter were added. This is done with two different lenses at 100 ISO, a variety of apertures, in all conditions on a tripod. I just can not get a sharp picture. Micro adjustments were made to compensate for each lens. Both lenses have been working flawlessly on a Rebel XT package for several years. Only when used on the 7D do both produce such effects.
-I get the most extreme chromatic aberration I've ever experienced. I'm used to creating a bit of fringing with strong reflected light, but this makes most of my work useless. Trying to sharpen the images leads to a terrible cross stitch pattern. I tried different combinations of amount and radius, but the pattern appears before a meaningful sharpening of the actual subject occurs.

This is extremely irritating and confusing with a new camera, and hopefully others have insights. Before anyone (without exception) accuses me of being a freshman, I may not know everything about digital cameras, but I've been a professional photo artist for 20 years and have a good digital imaging experience for large format prints. I also live under the illusion that a new camera like this one should work just fine 😉
Thank you for any help people can offer to end or share this suffering.

I have a Canon 7D, a Yongnuo YN685 with trigger and an AmazonBasics flash. I have to fire both from afar

So I have to fire both the Canon and the Amazon Flash at the same time. I know that Amazon has a built-in optical receiver. However, this will not help because the flash is in a softbox, blocking optical communication. I have the trigger for the YN685 (with built-in receiver) I would put on top of the camera.

Both the Yongnuo and the Amazon Flash have PC slots. Therefore, I do not know if I can connect a PC cable from one flash to the other and trigger the Yngnuo with the trigger.

Alternatively, I wondered if I could use the trigger on top of the camera for the Yongnuo Flash and use a PC cable from the Amazon flash to the PC slot of the camera (which is located on one of the sides of the camera).

Many Thanks!