I have a Nikon p900. I want to use bracketed exposures along with either a timer or remote shutter. Activating anything off the timer menu, either a 2 second timer or selecting the shutter remote turns off bracketing. Is there really no way to use bracketing with a timer or remote? Thanks
Hi, I'm new to real estate photography. What is the best method to fix the color cast, etc in Lightroom / Photoshop? I shot -2 to +2 EV for HDR merge. I'm shooting with a GoPro Fusion 360 camera which has limited options. It only allows f2.8.
I know I can shoot with my DSLR and stitch but I need to reduce time and workflow. Matterport is too expensive so I have to work with what I've got (GoPro Fusion).
Thanks for any help!!
What is the difference between "Fake HDR" and real HDR in bracketing?
The only difference is how far or narrowly you choose to define the term High Dynamic Range Imaging (HDR). Do you use the broader term, as it has been used for over 150 years in the past, to refer to techniques that display a scene with a dynamic range higher than the dynamic range of the display medium? Or insist on a very narrow definition that uses techniques that have only existed for a few decades to argue that this is the only legitimate definition of HDR Is an 8-bit version of a 32-bit floating-point light card with sound imaging created by combining multiple bracketing series? That's pretty much it.
HDR how the term is commonly used today is just a form of High Dynamic Range Imaging (HDRI) this has been the case since at least the 1850s.
Gustave Le Gray made multiple exposures at different exposure levels to create seascapes that used the bright sky from one glass plate negative and the darker sea and shore from another.
The zone system when shooting and developing and tone mapping Performed in the darkroom in the mid-20th century, it was elevated to an art form by Ansel Adams and others who used it development time and Dodge and burn printing to reduce the overall dynamic range of a scene to what the photo paper used could display.
In the field of digital photography, there are several techniques to represent a scene with one High dynamic range Use media such as a computer monitor or print that does not offer as much contrast between the lightest and darkest parts of a scene as the scene itself. What a lot of people mean when they say HDR is just one such technique among many.
Though far from being the only legitimate one, the most common understanding of the term today HDR This is the result of ideas first introduced in 1993 that led to a mathematical theory of differently exposed images of the same subject, published in 1995 by Steve Mann and Rosalind Picard. It creates a light map with a high dynamic range from several digital images that are exposed to different values, whereby only global image operations (over the entire image) are used. The result is often a 32-bit floating point image that no monitor or printer can render. Then the tone must be assigned by reducing the overall contrast while maintaining the local contrast so that it fits into the dynamic range of the display medium. This often leads to artifacts in the transitions between areas with high luminance values and areas with low luminance values. (Even if you open a 12-bit or 14-bit raw file in your photo application on your computer, you will see an 8-bit rendering of the demosaiced raw file on the screen, not the actually monochromatic Bayer-filtered 14-bit file. If you change the settings and sliders, the raw data is reassigned and re-rendered in 8 bits per color channel.
When the techniques described by Mann and Picard were first used in popular consumer imaging applications, these applications typically required the images used to be in JPEG format. A little later, if you want to get really exotic, you may find a program that you can use TIFFs with. Often, users took a single raw file, created a series of JPEGs from the single file with about -2, 0, +2 exposure / brightness differences, and then combined them with the HDR program. Even a 12-bit raw file can contain as much dynamic range as a JPEG series of -2, 0, +2. A 14-bit raw file can contain the corresponding information like a JPEG series with -3, 0, +3. Only relatively recently, most HDR applications based on the creation of floating point lightmaps have allowed raw file data to be used as a starting point.
In the broadest sense HDR (or HDRI) other processes are included that do not involve 32-bit luminance cards and the need for sound mapping. Combining different areas of different exposures of the same scene, be it through physical cutting and pasting like Le Gray over 150 years ago or through modern digital imaging applications that use layers is one possibility. Other techniques, such as exposure fusion or Digital mixing Make global adjustments digitally in a way that doesn't require the same type of tone mapping as a 32-bit floating point light card. As previously mentioned, many of the techniques used in the darkroom to make prints from exposed films in the 20th century were a means of displaying scenes with a very wide dynamic range using photo paper that had a lower dynamic range than the negative film could be used to capture the scene. The same applies to these diverse digital technologies.
Even converting a 14-bit raw file where the data for each pixel has only a luminance value but no real colors, and using demosaicing algorithms to get an 8-bit color value per color channel for red, green, and blue for each Interpolate pixels to the different luminance values of neighboring pixels, which are filtered with a Bayer mask with alternating patterns of red, green and blue can be taken into account HDRIespecially when irregularly shaped tone curves are applied to the resulting RGB values.
Take a picture of your left hand.
Before you start bracketing, take a picture of your left hand indicating the number of shots in bracketing.
What if there are more than 5 shots?
Well, use the fist as a number, open the backhand as one, open the palm of your hand as one, take a picture of your feet.
It's all up to you. Just do not unpack to make 6. Someone will find it offensive.
I edit photos of the total Solar Eclipse 2019. I have configured my Canon Rebel T6s with aperture priority and fixed ISO 100. I used the bracketing +/- 2/3. However, some images have identical shutter values (as recorded in the exif metadata accessed in RawTherapee).
Picture 1 = 1/15 shutter, 100 ISO, 0.00 ECV
Pic2 = 1/25 shutter, 100 ISO, -0.67 ECV
Pic3 = 1/25 shutter, 100 ISO, +0.67 ECV (<- should have a slower shutter than 1/15)
How can pictures 2 and 3 have the same shutter value and yet a different ECV? What do I miss?
NOTE: Some of my pictures worked as expected. Any idea why some did not?
If you set up an exposure bracketing on my old D80 and keep the button pressed, the bracketing will be shot down as soon as possible and then stopped.
I can not find a shot on my D7500 that produces the same behavior. Either firing the shots one at a time or not stopping when the bracketing is complete. In the long term / slow, I can almost always count it correctly, but not every time.
Is something missing or is not possible?
I know this question To shoot all shots in the bracketing sequence with a shutter button, was asked several times, but the answer was CL or CH or self-timer, But while I played around, I stopped it Q and all three shots are triggered with a single squeeze press, but it is not consistent. If I try again with another instance, it may not work. Are other settings required to enable this again, or is this a bug in the software?
Your camera usually behaves the way it was designed.
I focus, press the trigger, and only one photo is taken. I have to press the shutter button three times or hold down to take the sequence of shots.
She will be on page 106 in the EOS Rebel T3i / EOS 600D user manual,
Under the first point, it may be clearer that you "… have to push the trigger completely and hold it down until the series is completedthe three shots are recorded in parentheses … "Perhaps, since we were all trained to press the shutter button all the way down until a picture was taken to reduce camera shake (or?), this could be assumed by the reader would understand it as the case.
So, should I only be able to automatically capture all 3 pictures with the 2 second timer? In this mode, it waits two seconds after the shutter button is pressed, and then takes all 3 pictures. But I also saw videos from the same camera doing this in continuous mode.
The EOS rebels are all set up. So most, if not all, other EOS cameras. There are cameras from other manufacturers that can be set up to take all three shots with a single trigger. Canon cameras, however, do not allow this option. ¹ When mirror lock is used, there is no way to bypass the mirror Switching between shots, even if you use a wireless remote control, to enable the entire exposure bracketing with the press of a button!
¹ If there are exceptions, then only for some 1 Series bodies or possibly for the 5Ds / 5Ds R or 5D Mark IV. Both my 5D Mark III and 7D Mark II and my older 5D Mark II, 7D, 50D and Rebel XTi / 400D are all the same in this regard as your Rebel T3i / 600D.
In the videos you watch, either the shutter button is pressed in continuous mode. A wired remote with a built-in interval meter that takes a longer exposure time (eg, two or three seconds) is pressed once and sends a "shutter down" signal for several seconds when the camera is in continuous operation or another camera is used in the videos.
You may be able to do what you want by setting a RC-1 or RC-6 wireless remote control (but Not the RC-5 that can just in 2-second delay mode) so that the first photo is taken immediately when the button is pressed while the camera is in the self-timer mode (10 seconds) & # 39; located.
I can not use the left / right arrows in the exposure menu (not in the menu, not in quick access, and I can only make a parenthesis with the main slider). But the left and right arrows under / over exposure should be right for me?
Most Canon cameras can not set an exposure compensation value in use Manual Exposure mode. Some models released since mid-2014 include the option. This currently includes the EOS 7D Mark II, 5Ds, 5Ds R, 1DXMark II, 5DMark IV, 80D, etc., but none of the Rebel / x00D / x000D series. The original 1D X is also compatible with a firmware update from 2014. This is on page 103 of the EOS Rebel T3i / 600D EOS Rebel T3i / EOS 600D user manual,
For more suggestions about workarounds, see Stopping in manual mode with automatic ISO in this answer.
Further reference: Can I use the exposure compensation in manual mode with the automatic ISO setting on a Canon DSLR?
Considering the number of D3000, D3100, D3x00 cameras sold by Nikon, AEB is not a deal breaker for many buyers.
Whether it's a deal breaker for you or not depends on your personal preferences and usage plans.
You can perform manual bracketing and bracketing by changing the exposure compensation between each image when using semi-automatic exposure modes. You can manually perform exposure bracketing by manually changing the shutter speed in the manual exposure mode between each frame.
Or you buy a Canon EOS entry-level camera. All of their entry-level models, as well as all parent models, contain some form of AEB. The Canon model that best suits the Nikon D3400 is the Rebel T6 / 1300D. It has AEB with 3 shots +/- 2 EV in steps of 1, 1/2 or 1/3. Some of Canon's high-level models offer AEB for up to 7 shots in increments of +/- 3 EV in full, 1/2, or 1/3 stop increments.