Can a Canon 7D’s serial number tell us the manufacturing date?

Possibly, but the information to decode date of manufacture doesn’t seem to be known outside of the Canon company.

Canon bodies and lenses used to have a date code stamped on them, separate from the serial number. That practice was phased out for some, but not all, products in 2010 or 2011.

According to Wikipedia, the Canon 7D was announced in late 2009, so if the camera was made early in the production run, it’s possible (but unlikely) that your camera body has a date code stamped on it. The date code will have the following format,

PYMM##

where

  • P is the factory where the product was manufactured: “F” (Fukushima), “U” (Utsonomiya), or “O” (Oita). Apparently, most (if not all) of the lenses have been made at Utsonomiya, and SLR bodies are made at Oita (and formerly Fukushima). Thus, date codes for lenses usually start with “U”, and SLR bodies’ date codes start with “O” (or “F” until about 1991).

  • Y is a letter code for year of manufacture, starting with A = 1986, through Z = 2011 (they used the same A-Z letter code for year of manufacture starting with 1960, but used a slightly different format for the rest of the date code then). So if your 7D has a date code, it could only start with X, Y, Z (X being unlikely).

  • MM is the month of manufacture: 01 = January, … 12 = December.

  • ## is a 2-digit number that has no apparent meaning for decoding the date of manufacture.

Sources

  • Canon EOS Beginner’s FAQ:

    How old is my camera or lens?

    Canon EOS products often have date codes stamped onto them. These alphanumeric codes are separate from the numeric serial number and are usually hidden away somewhere – inside the film chamber of most cameras or on the black light baffle on the underside of many lenses. Not all EOS products have this code (for some reason Canon gear built in Taiwan often lacks date coding, and Canon is dropping date codes as of 2010) and those that do often have the code printed in shiny black ink that’s hard to read.

    The code looks like UG0205, for example. The first letter represents the name of the factory at which the product was made – often O for Oita (cameras) or U for Utsonomiya (lenses). The second letter is the date code, in which A is the year 1986. The next two digits are the month of manufacture, and the last two digits are apparently internal codes meaningful only to Canon. In the UG0205 example, therefore, my lens was built in Utsonomiya in February 1992.

  • Canon Date Codes from Bob Atkins Photography EOS FAQ.

  • Canon lens date codes and EF lens chronology. Interestingly, this page indicates that as of 2016, at least some lenses still have this date code stamped on them (contradicting other references that say the date code system was phased out in 2010 or 2011:

    The date codes restarted at ‘A’ again in 2012. This TS-E24 mk2 lens ‘UD0406’ was purchased in 2015 (box dated May 2015)

    It seems that the old date code system is still in use – a TS-E17 UC0903 (Sept. 2014) is consistent with the box date (Oct. 2014)

  • Canon Camera & Lens Date/Factory Code Explained from ebay.co.uk, written 2006.


Addendum

At Bryan Carnathan’s site, The Digital Picture, the article Determining the Age of a Canon Lens Using Serial Numbers and Date Codes shows a table for converting the first two digits of the serial number of a Canon lens. However, regarding the applicability of this decoding to DSLRs, the article notes that

Canon EOS DSLR camera body serial numbers, at least for 2013, do not follow this chart. Also please note that future dates shown in the table are predictions/expectations.

time – what is the avg DPS of a wave canon and a lock weapon?

I’m trying to show stats of 3 different weapons:

The first weapon is a missile where the damage is instant upon explosion and the DPS is number of missile/s * explosion damage and these two other weapons:

One weapon type is a laser, its damage increases with time from initial DPS at the speed of 0.3 DPS/s up to a max of 8*initial DPS
What’s the average DPS? Or something that’s comparable to a one off DPS weapon like a missile?

The other weapon is like RTYPE wave gun where you keep the button pressed and its damage goes from amp*maxDPS to maxDPS where amp goes from 0.05 to 1 in 1.3 seconds

What does 1: in Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS II mean?

It means exactly the same as f/. 1: is just an older syntax for denoting a ratio. You might also occasionally see 1/. Since the f-stop is essentially a ratio of focal length to entrance pupil diameter (the apparent size of the aperture when looking into the front of the lens), one of these notations is used to indicate, in this case, that at the 18mm end, your apparent entrance pupil size is 18/3.5 = 5.14mm, and at the 55mm end it’s 55/5.6 = 9.82mm.

Setting up Canon 430EX III-RT and Yongnuo YN622C-TX?

The Yongnuo 622 system is a separate system that’s incompatible with Canon’s RT system. While both operate on the 2.4 GHz radio band, the signal protocols are different. It’s kind of like how wi-fi, bluetooth, your garage door opener, and baby monitor all use 2.4 GHz, but don’t communicate with each other.

To use the 430EX III-RT together with a YN-622C-TX, you’d need to add a YN-622C transceiver to its foot. Or, you need to get a transmitter unit that “speaks” RT, like a Canon ST-E3-RT, Yongnuo YN-E3-RT, or a Westcott FJ-X2m (aka a Jinbei TR-Q7).

But. What I would recommend, if you’re happy to ditch OEM and go for cheaper 3rd-party gear? Is returning both the flash and trigger and getting a Godox TT685-C (or possibly V860 II if you need extended battery life) and XPro-C or Flashpoint R2 Pro II-C. While Canon RT gear is great, and you’ll definitely get the best service and compatibility with OEM flash gear, if you’re getting into off-camera studio-style lighting, Canon’s OEM and Yongnuo’s 622 system is limited to only speedlights, and only Caonn/Nikon TTL/HSS support. If you want bigger lights, if you find the grass is greener over at Sony or Fuji, you’re kind of screwed. Or you’re going 3rd-party anyway.

Godox has a full lighting system, with lights of all sizes that scale from a mini speedlight all the way up to a 2400 Ws pack and heads and a ton of stuff in-between at all pricepoints. The system supports TTL/HSS for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji, Olympus/Panasonic, and Pentax; and that support works cross-brand. So sharing the same lights between two different camera systems is easy. The Westcott FJ system is similar, but only has one speedlight and two mini strobes in the system at the moment.

And. The Godox pricetags are similar to Yongnuo’s (although, sadly, the lack of customer service is similar to Yongnuo’s, too. Buy from a reputable retailer that will support the warranty period for you and offer customer support. In the US, Adorama and B&H do this.) Westcott has better customer service, but higher pricetags.

canon – How do I determine the best new equivalent model for my insurers to replace an older camera?

Honestly, on paper the current lower tier 2000D/Rebel T7 matches or exceeds just about every specification from the more than a decade old 500D/Rebel T1i.

It does have slightly lower burst rate and buffer: The 2000D can shoot at 3.0 fps for 150 JPEGs or 11 raw, while the 500D can go at 3.5 fps for 170 JPEGs or 9 raw.

One difference you might could have used to argue that the 2000D won’t do what the 500D can do is use Magic Lantern. There is a stable version of Magic Lantern available for the 500D. There is no finished or even “beta” version of Magic Lantern available for the 2000D/Rebel T7 or 4000D.

You could have tried to convince the insurance company that using some of the functionality that Magic Lantern offers which isn’t included in Canon’s firmware was vital to the way you used your 500D/Rebel T1i, then they might budge and allow for a model that can currently run Magic Lantern.

Alas, none of Canon’s current models have a stable version of ML available, so you’d be looking at what a used 700D/Rebel T7i would cost.

There is one glaring difference between the 500D/T1i and the 2000D/Rebel T7, though: A center pin in the hot shoe that allows using third party non-TTL third party flashes.

The 500D/Rebel T1i has one, the 2000D and 4000D do not. (At least the initial production runs did not. There have been reports that very recent 2000D bodies do now include a fully functional hot shoe, but you don’t know that, right?) If you have third party flashes that worked with the 500D but won’t work with camera lacking the center pin, that might be just the thing to convince them they need to provide a camera that can use your current flashes or, in addition to the camera, they need to also provide Canon flashes that will work with the “borked” hot shoe. It will be cheaper for them to buy you an 800D than to buy a 2000D AND couple of Canon flashes!

canon – Why won’t my Commlite T320 triggers work as a shutter release for a second camera?

Have you checked the auto power-off setting on the secondary camera (the T5i)?

When my Rebel T7 turns off after the timeout, it takes a second or two for it to “wake up” when I half-press the shutter (or press any other button). If the camera is in auto-off and I fully depress the shutter without waiting for it to wake up, it does not take a photo. I suspect this is what’s happening with your remote trigger — it attempts to fire the shutter immediately upon receiving the signal, but since the camera is in auto-off, it isn’t able to take the photo.

On my camera, this setting is labelled “Auto power off” and is found under the first yellow wrench of the settings menu. Try setting it to “Disable”.

Note that this will likely impact your battery life. Since you’re intending to operate the camera remotely, you can adjust other options to conserve battery, such as turning off the display and disabling image review.

As a side note, you may want to cover the eyepiece on the secondary camera, since light entering through the viewfinder can affect the light meter and confuse the auto exposure. Ordinarily your face is there to block the light, but since you’re across the field you’ll need to use something else 🙂 The neck strap of my T7 came with a little rubber piece that’s designed to cover the eyepiece in this type of situation. This Canon page describes how to remove the eyecup and attach the eyepiece cover.

canon – FD lens aperture is slow

I bought a Canon AE-1 Program on eBay along with a 50mm f/1.4. The camera works well with other lenses, but the 50mm’s aperture seems slow. Moving the bayonet (I think that’s what it’s called) takes much more force than on my other FD lenses.

As a result, the time between pushing the shutter button and the shutter releasing is sometimes hours. However, if I push the shutter button while holding the depth of field preview button, the shutter releases immediately. Similarly, if I push the shutter button and then push the depth of field preview button, the shutter releases. The depth of field preview button is very hard to push. Sometimes the shutter works as it should.

Do I need to lubricate it? How can I fix my lens?

FD 50mm Lens Problem

canon – Problem with second camera trigger

Today i got a Commlite T320 remote trigger system which I want to use to trigger my second camera that will be positioned behind a goal in football matches… I have never used a remote camera trigger system before but have used one for remote flash work and I have seen a lot of videos about them and I understand how they work(or atleast I think I do lol)…

My main body is a Canon 7D Mark II and for the second/remote body I picked up a cheap Canon 700D(Rebel T5i) which will be good enough and wont be a huge money loss if a ball hits it and destroys it…

Now I placed the transmitter in the hot shoe on my main body and the receiver in the hot shoe on the second body and connected the receiver with the included cable. I set them to the same channel and pressed the TEST button on the transmitter and it worked… the second camera took a picture. Great!

Now here is my problem… when I press the shutter button on my main camera the second camera doesn’t trigger… the light flashes on the receiver but nothing else happens… anyone has any idea what I’m doing wrong? have I forgotten to change some settings?