Is it possible to prevent packet capturing on Android for sent TCP/IP packets?

I’d like to know if some measure is possible to prevent the capturing of packets that are being sent on Android.

I’d need the solution to work via code (cannot rely on external tools).

Packets are already encrypted, but it would be a nice plus if they couldn’t be captured, or, at least, that it would be difficult to.

Is anything like this possible or is there no way to prevent capture of a packet via packet capture software?

Particles render differently on transparent and non transparent background when capturing them with screenshoot in Unity(URP)

Hi maybe the title is not really good so I will try to explain it as much as I can.
So I want to take a screenshot of some particles over a sprite. For screenshot I use this code:

    private void createScreenshot(){

    RenderTexture renderTexture = SpriteCamera.targetTexture;

    Texture2D renderResult = new Texture2D(renderTexture.width, renderTexture.height, TextureFormat.ARGB32, false);
    Rect rect = new Rect(0, 0, renderTexture.width, renderTexture.height);
    renderResult.ReadPixels(rect, 0, 0);

    PreviewTex = renderResult;

    byte() byteArray = renderResult.EncodeToPNG();
    string filepath = ScreenshotName(renderResult.width, renderResult.height);
    File.WriteAllBytes(filepath, byteArray);

    SpriteCamera.targetTexture = null;
 private void takeeScreenshot(int width, int height)
    SpriteCamera.targetTexture = RenderTexture.GetTemporary(width, height, 32);

And it kind of works. The problem is that screenshot of the particle is different then particles in runtime. Specificly the parts that are not above the sprite are in different color when I use Simple lit material and if I use unlite material the part that is not above the sprite is transparent.
Im using URP.

Expected img:

Expected img

With simple lit shader:

enter image description here

With unlit shader:

enter image description here

Simple Lit shader Setup:

enter image description here

Unlit shader setup:

enter image description here

sensor – Capturing Lightning with Pi Camera – Hard purple lines in overexposed area

Can I fix the purple lines in this image in capture processing on my Pi HQ Camera?

When shooting long exposures at night, my Pi HQ Camera has purple line artefacts where the lightning strikes, or there is extreme over exposure. This is not something I can avoid, as I do not know if there is lightning and ideally, the sensor processing would better handle this. The sensor in question is a Sony IMX477 sensor and the software controls for night exposures are manual shutter speed, digital and analogue gain settings.

For reference, please see the example image (of which I have many more). A one-off could be repaired without too much fuss, but having dozens is a pain.

purple lines in overexposed lightning areas

conversion – How to Create an ISO Capturing a Windows 10 Installation

I have installed and customized Windows 10 on my desktop computer. I want to create an ISO that captures this installation, including all its settings and installed software.

I plan to load this ISO onto a single-boot USB drive, using Rufus, or onto a multiboot USB drive, using YUMI. I will then boot and run my customized desktop Windows 10 installation from the USB drive, as if I had installed Windows on that drive.

If there is no way to capture a Windows 10 installation directly into an ISO, is there a way to convert the output of some other relevant tool to ISO? For example, there seems to be an option of saving drive C as a VHD and then converting the VHD to ISO. But it appears the latter step requires either a $40 purchase of IsoBuster (if indeed it can produce what I want) or a tricky manual process.

nikon – Why are most smartphone cameras poor at capturing photos during the nighttime compared to DSLR cameras?

Phone cameras have come a long way since the 2000s in terms of megapixels however one glaringly obvious way in which they fail is their ability to capture photos in low-light conditions.

I have a Huawei smartphone as well as a Nikon D3X from my friend and previously owned a Samsung Galaxy S3 a few years ago. Both of the phones could capture very good daytime photos however the difference in quality was apparent when I tried to take a photo of the moon or sodium lamps. The photos from both smartphones were very unclear and had a lot of noise.

I’ve also read this online.

macbook pro – How do I troubleshoot screen capture utilities only capturing one side of audio?

I use screen capture utilities like Movavi and Snagit on my MacBook Pro 2019 (Big Sur) to record software demos. When using a headset or any other microphone connected to a USB port, the recorded audio is in stereo.

When I use any external audio interface (PreSonus Studio 24C or Behringer U-Phoria UM2) as the captured audio source, I only get one side (the left side) of the audio. Using either interface with an application that doesn’t capture the screen in any way works perfectly, clear audio from both sides.

I’m certain that the audio interfaces are working properly. For instance, I can record my voice just fine using Vector 3 (or any other audio recorder) and the audio interface, and it’s clear stereo.

I need to use an audio interface because the mic I need to make a good recording needs an interface in order to work with my MacBook Pro. I haven’t had a lot of luck troubleshooting this, even through contacting support from Movavi and Snagit. I’m trying my best to go through all possible system settings and configuration tweaks that I can – is this a common problem with screen capture scenarios? I was about to chalk it up to a third-party bug, but this seems to persist no matter what utility I use, yet the audio interfaces work perfectly fine with any other software that isn’t doing a screen recording and I’m a little baffled as to why.

lighting – Capturing the full effect of iridescent/”holo” nail polish

Think of what happens when a rainbow forms: zillions of water droplets are scattered through the air refracting light. You see a rainbow because light from the sun is very directional and makes all the droplets refract light in the same way. Droplets located along a specific arc all scatter light of a given color at just the right angle to reach your eye. Droplets located along a parallel but slightly different arc do the same thing, but for a different color. The directionality of the light is the key to making that happen; if the light were soft and therefore coming from all directions, the droplets would scatter light in all directions and you’d never see the colors organized into bands.

You’ve got a very similar situation with the nail polish: there are thousands of tiny particles in the polish reflecting light, with some diffraction being caused either by the particles themselves or perhaps by the film of the nail polish. With a directional light, all the flakes forming a certain angle with the incident light and your eye will reflect the same color toward the viewer (or the camera). With a soft light, each flake will reflect light from many directions, and the result is a white or gray appearance.

You definitely need a directional component to make that iridescence show up. Experiment with the light or camera position to get the colors you want. You should also experiment to see if you can mix in a certain amount of softer light to make the skin of the hands look better without overwhelming the colors you want.