Penetration Test – Alfa Wireless Card Monitor Mode Problem

Enter image description hereI have a wireless card (Alfa AWUS036H) that I use to test pens in my test network. Because of my recent interest in network hacking, I picked up this card and put it into monitor mode. It scanned networks well and received strong signals from neighboring networks, but when I disconnected it the next day or restarted my computer, it could not detect any networks with the command airodump-ng wlan0mon wlan0mon is the interface of the card.

To get the card working again, I would need to reboot the virtual box, unplug the power, or even reboot my computer several times to make it work again. I do not know if it's a software or hardware problem. If this were a real situation, it would not be practicable in any way.

I am running Kali-Linux 2019.1 on Virtual-Box 5.2. My computer is running Windows 10.

Your help would be appreciated.

windows – Forces the RD Gateway communication on a specific network card

We configured an RD Gateway server (with Web access on the same computer) with two network adapters. The server works fine, but it takes a long time to "connect" an application. A review of Wireshark revealed that the RD Gateway server was trying to connect to the Active Directory server using the wrong network interface card on port 389.

A static route has been set up to force the connection to the AD server over a specific network card. However, the Remote Desktop Services seem to be using the wrong network interface (0; with default gateway).

The connection works fine when I try Ping and Telnet (on port 389). In addition, I later see a successful communication in the Wireshark trace using the correct network interface (using the same port). This is only after 1 minute, so this seems to explain the login delay.

I expect the communication to start via the RD Gateway. Is a network card directly attached to it, and how can this be changed?

Network – I sent a copy of my ID card over the WLAN at work

The title says it all, I had to send my ID to a website to verify my identity. But I took the picture with my phone and sent it to iOS via Messenger. I sent the image to myself via messenger so I can download it to my PC and then censor my personal information. Immediately after downloading the image, I found that I was using Wi-Fi instead of my own 4G hotspot at work. The image I sent contains a unique copy of my ID, as well as the image I downloaded. Is there a possibility that they can intercept the traffic and get a clear copy of my ID card?

Unclear if Gray Card can be used for post-production exposure?

Two photographers developed in the 1890s a method for the precise exposure of films and papers and to measure the development of the material resulting blackening. The measure they use is called "density". This is a numeric value that determines how much light will delay the darkness. The inverse is how much light the darkness lets happen. This measure is the percentage transmission.

As you know, films and papers have a range of hues. The center of this range is a battleship gray. The gray card is a poster that reflects 18% of the incoming light. Event is an old French meaning arriving soon.

In the mid-1930s, Messrs. Jones and Condit of the Kodak Laboratory found that statistically a typical sunlit scene with a reflectance of about 18% was included. Around this time, Western Electric Company launched the first photometer. Kodak Labs publish a recommendation. Place a Kodak Filmbox in the scene. It seems that the box reflects 18% of the ambient light. Now measure the reflected light from the top of the box and use this value to adjust your exposure.

In 1941, Ansel Adams, a well-known landscape photographer, and his friend Fred Archer, a publisher of a photo magazine, jointly released the zone system, which gives photographers a method for fine-tuning the exposure. Their zone system revolves around the use of an 18% -platform (battleship gray). This card replaces the Kodak top case. The 18% gray target became the de facto standard. Nowadays, the film and paper sensitivity and the digital chip are calibrated and the film and digital ISO are determined using the 18 percent gray card.

This hue is unique because the resulting correctly exposed and processed film image of this object measures 0.75 transmission density units when photographing an object that reflects 18%. If this film is printed and processed correctly, the object also measures 0.75 units of reflected density on the print. The uniqueness is that the object, film and print have the same density when exposure, processing and printing are perfectly matched.

Again, the density value of 0.75 as the midpoint of the scale of film and paper is well thought out. This value is the defacto standard used to calibrate instruments for measuring photographic film and paper. This value is also transferred to the calibration of the light meter.

The scaling of the digital image in 8-bit ansi terms = 128. We can also call this value Zone V in the Ansel Adams zone system.

If the same scheme is used, a picture of a gray card would probably have a value of about 128 if properly repented.

Lower, higher or the same card game (Python) – How to make it "more pythonic"

This is my second script in my native language. I try to orient myself and to create better foundations. I noticed in the while loop that I was getting really chaotic, but I could not go looking for a better solution that I could understand. I would appreciate any feedback that makes my code more "pythonic" or cleaner.

import random

def card_deck():
    card_faces = ('2', '3', '4', '5', '6', '7', '8', '9', '10', 'Jack', 'Queen', 'King', 'Ace')
    card_suits = ('♠', '♦', '♥', '♣')
    deck = ()
    for i in card_suits:
        for j in card_faces:
            deck.append(j + ' ' +  i)
    return deck

def card_draw(deck):
    random.shuffle(deck)
    deck = deck.pop()
    return deck

def card_value(card):
    card = str(card)
    if card(0) == 'J':
        return 10
    elif card(0) == 'Q':
        return 12
    elif card(0) == 'K':
        return 13
    elif card(0) == 'A':
        return 14
    else:
        card = int(card(0:2))
        return card

correct_guesses = 0
deck = card_deck()
card = card_draw(deck)


while True:
    card_points = card_value(card)
    if not deck:
        print("You've done it! You've won with", correct_guesses, "correct guesses!")
        break
    next_card = card_draw(deck)
    next_card_points = card_value(next_card)
    print("nYou're card is: ", card)
    user_guess = input('n(H)igher, (L)ower, or (S)ame?:t')
    user_guess = user_guess.lower()
    if user_guess not in ('h', 'l', 's'):
        break
    if card_points < next_card_points and user_guess == 'h':
        print("Correct!")
        correct_guesses += 1
        card = next_card
        continue
    elif card_points > next_card_points and user_guess == 'l':
        print("Correct!")
        correct_guesses += 1
        card = next_card
        continue
    elif card_points == next_card_points and user_guess == 's':
        print("Correct!")
        correct_guesses += 1
        card = next_card
        continue
    else:
        print('You lose the next card was ', next_card)
        print('You had', correct_guesses, 'correct guesses.')
        break
```

Graphics card – EVGA Nvidia GTX 1080 TI FTW3 – First fan speed after 100%

My GPU started acting a bit silly after dropping out in the EGPU case. I do not know what to look for in the wiring or if anything can be done to fix it.

When I look at my EVGA Precision X1 control panel, I can clearly see that one of my fans is at 0%, but the fan itself still blows:

Enter image description here

And as you can see, none of the temperatures reads anything crazy:

Enter image description here

So it seems as if no intentional signal to the fan, but only is The fan speed detector is still accurate. Which wire / wires would I search? Or is this something that may not be addressable with just one computer superuser and that would actually require a vendor to examine it?

Any help would be appreciated, my backup plan is to sell it on ebay and display the problem, but otherwise it works well and buy a replacement.

This is my card -89d3-7f947a39cafc & pd_rd_w = Etu7Z & pd_rd_wg = IcyKO & pf_rd_p = 5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a & pf_rd_r = P3BDSBQ7BP5HBXBXBXR