lens – How to get autofocus to work with D5100 and AF-P DX Nikkor

No, there is nothing you can do. Nikon’s AF-P lenses do not work with the D5100. At the time of release of the first AF-P lenses (the 18–55mm, both with and without VR), the only cameras that supported AF-P lenses were D5300 and D5500, and a firmware update was made available to the D3300 so it would support AF-P lenses as well.

See this article at Nikonrumors.com: The new AF-P Nikkor 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6G DX lenses works only with three Nikon DSLR cameras
There has been no firmware update for the D5100 to support this lens.


Nikon’s sites for the AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6G (both with and without VR), and the AF-P DX NIKKOR 70–300mm f/4.5–6.3G ED (also both with and without VR) make the following statements with respect to AF-P and autofocus with these lenses:

* Because AF-P lenses incorporate a stepping motor, the number of compatible cameras is limited. Even for compatible cameras, firmware update may be required.

* Because focus mode (AF/MF) is set using the camera menus, the number of compatible cameras is limited.

Note that these statements are not present on their page for the AF-P DX NIKKOR 10–20mm f/4.5–5.6G VR lens.

In the User Manuals for the AF-P 18–55mm and AF-P 70–300mm lenses, Nikon states:

This lens does not support D4-series, D3-series, D2-series, D1-series, D800- series, D700, D610, D600, D300-series, D200, D100, D90, D80, D70-series, D60, D50, D40-series, D7000, D5100, D5000, D3200, D3100 or D3000 digital SLR cameras or film SLR cameras. When using it with a D5500, D5300, or D3300, be sure the camera firmware has been updated to the latest version.

Ok… it’s easier to state what bodies the lenses do support. Citing Thom Hogan’s article at dslrbodies.com regarding the AF-P 70–300mm lenses,

So here’s my conclusion:

  • D3400/D5500 users: this is the basic telephoto zoom to buy, no questions asked
  • D500, D3300, D5200, D5300 users: make sure you have the current firmware; probably the basic telephoto lens to buy
  • D7100, D7200 users: note that you can’t set VR to off; if that’s okay with you, consider the lens
  • All other older DX users: do not buy this lens

What can I expect for battery life from my Nikon D5100?

You answered your own question. About 125-140 sounds right. The live view is your biggest drain, so the longer it’s on between shots, the less shots you’ll get.

I don’t use Live View, and have Image Review turned off, and I always carry a spare battery. I shoot all day and often have to change batteries, but never use up the second. Matt is right, if you want more battery life you may want to adjust your technique accordingly. Once you get used to the viewfinder you’ll rarely find a need for Live View.

exposure – Nikon d5100 producing extremely underexposed images

I have a most vexing problem.

I have a Nikon d5100 (roughly a year old) which up until two days ago handled exposure and metering just fine. However, at night, in a well lit room (florescent bulbs) in which I NEVER had problems capturing images at reasonable shutter speeds, apertures and ISOs (< 400), here’s what’s happening now:

  1. In Manual, even at low shutter speeds (1/90 and lower) and relatively open apertures (3.5) – ISO 640 and less – my pictures are almost completely black. Pointing the camera at a bright lightbulb just barely captures the light with heavy shadows all around it.
  2. Exposure compensation no longer has ANY effect on the exposure
  3. Shooting in Aperture Priority mode at f/3.5 at anything lower than ISO 1000 reduces my shutter speeds to 1/2 or lower to compensate.

Yes, I know. ISO. Keep in mind, the room is quite brightly lit and I never had this issue prior to last night. That being said, the only way I can capture a reasonably exposed picture here is at ISOs 6400 and above. But even a picture at 1/125, f/5.6, ISO 6400 (manual) is still ridiculously dark.

I have taken the following step to troubleshoot, to no avail:

  • Turned exposure compensation up to the max +5.0 – no effect
  • Turned shutter speeds down to 1/40 and below – extremely limited effect
  • Turned ISO up to 6400 and beyond – limited effect
  • Update the camera’s firmware (1.01 > 1.02) – no effect
  • Reset the camera using the buttons with the two green dots – no effect, multiple tries
  • Messed with the metering modes – no effect
  • Turned it off and on again – no effect
  • Stared pointedly at the camera – camera didn’t even flinch

I am at an absolute loss here and I really, truly, need help.

Images:

ISO 100, f/3.8, 1/3
ISO 100, f/3.8, 1/3

ISO 100, f/3.8, 1/90
ISO 100, f/3.8, 1/90

ISO 1000, f/3.8, 1/90
ISO 1000, f/3.8, 1/90

nikon d5100 – Is it normal to see a different exposure reading through viewfinder and LCD?

I have no experience with the D5100 but I would be very confident that the two displays should be the same if they are in fact meant to be measuring the same parameters.

If the two readings are not made essentially exactly simultaneously then it is possible for a number of factors to influence the result. In low light conditions a very small change in the degree of obstruction of light from a stronger light source can make a noticeable difference in exposure. The act of moving one’s head or arm or body even slightly may be enough to change readings depending on how far away the target was and the relationship of light sources.

In extreme cases, light entering via the viewfinder when your eye is not blocking it may cause the LCD reading to read as if there is more light on the subject than is actually there.

If it is not possible to read LCD and viewfinder values simultaneously by yourself you could use two people with one calling out the reading for the other person to confirm.

If the readings do differ under such controlled and simultaneous conditions then it suggests either that the camera is faulty (which seems unlikely) or that the two displays have somewhat different intended purposes (which also seems unlikely:-).

live view – D5100 auto Lv from HDMI splitter/Switch

I am new to forums and, although I have had my Nikon D5100 for some time and feel I know my way around it pretty well, there is a feature that eludes my knowledge.

I am about to embark on some live streaming DJ podcasts and have a go pro hero 4 and me beloved D5100. While I know that the Lv timer is there to protect the camera and the sensor my D5100 has an annoying habit of switching of Lv when I change camera through the splitter to my gopro and I have to manually switch Lv back on when I go back to the Nikon.

Is there anyway I can have the splitter turn Lv back on via HDMI control or is it something I would have to live with. Kindest regards and thank you in advance.

Troubleshooting – Is it normal for a Nikon D5100 to freeze after taking multiple photos in a row?

Do you mean "freeze" since nothing works, i. H. Can't access the menu, turn live view on / off, etc.?
This is not normal – I have had my D5100 for a few years and 20 to 30,000 pictures and I have never frozen it.

However, there are a few cases where no picture is taken when the shutter button is pressed:

  • If the Autofocus cannot get focus lock (Switch to manual focus or set focus mode to AF-C and the menu Custom Settings > a1 AF-C priority selection to release rather than focus)
  • When using the built-in flash: The shutter is disabled until the flash has charged. After several flash shots in succession, there is another waiting time until the flash has cooled down. (There is no need to turn the camera off and on again. Just wait a few seconds to half a minute and it will be ready.)
  • If the Buffer is full in series shooting. (Wait only a few seconds for the camera to write the buffer to the memory card.)
  • If there is No memory card or the camera cannot use it;; e.g. because it is full, blocked or something is wrong with the card. (Try a different memory card.)

In short, if the camera actually freezes – you can't access the menus without restarting the camera – there is probably a problem with the camera.

However, if the trigger is temporarily disabled, this is probably normal. There are a few more cases than the ones I listed, see section Troubleshooting in the D5100 manual ("Trigger deactivated", page 220 in my copy).

Nikon d5100 – why is Live View so loud and unlike mirrorless shots?

It sounds like you are leaving out important information: In poor lighting?

I've never owned a Nikon DSLR, but that's probably because the live view needs to be refreshed frequently (e.g., at least 24 fps, if not faster), so the ISO is very high for shorter samples receive. Hence noise. Any post-processing is likely to be skipped, but that probably doesn't matter alongside the ISO problem.

However, when the actual photo is taken, the shutter stays open long enough to take a lower ISO shot.

As for the additional noises, I can't answer that specifically for this camera, but I can address it more generally. SLR cameras continue to develop. For example, the early Sony a7 series could be set up to take pictures while only activating half of the shutter (front or rear curtain, user selection). This eliminated half of the noise. But you also lost some other functions. With newer a7 models, you can completely disable the shutter curtains and rely 100% on the "electronic curtain", which is essentially quiet. (The a7 is also mirrorless, so it has no noise anyway.) There are some inherent limitations right now because there are no closures, but these will likely be fixed in the future.

Personally, I like the "thunk" mirror, even though it adds vibrations. I also like the shutter sound when I take pictures alone and the sound is not a problem. (Otherwise, I prefer to be less noticeable and interrupt the moment.) But the industry seems to be moving away from both, or at least from a physical lock. Many cameras are currently at an intermediate location.

Off camera flash – problem with locking synchronization with Godox X2T-N and Nikon D5100

I just bought a Godox X2T-N transmitter for my Nikon D5100 along with a Godox TT600 Speedlite.

When I played with it, I noticed that the pictures were cut horizontally in half, with the upper part being more illuminated than the lower one. At first I thought it was a camera problem, but after a few checks I finally found that it was a synchronization problem: there is latency between the flash and the shutter.

Setup is as simple as possible with these three elements: the transmitter is attached to the hot shoe of the camera, the flash is set as slave (S1) in group A, channel 1.

The camera shutter speed is set to 1/200 (in manual mode) (this seems to be the fastest shutter speed allowed when the transmitter is mounted) and the anti-red-eye feature is disabled. The trigger is set to high speed synchronization (although I noticed this for the first time in synchronization mode of the second curtain) – Edit: Apparently the D5100 is not HSS-capable (high speed synchronization), so this is expected. The camera exposure delay mode doesn't improve things, nor does the X2T delay setting.

I've seen the Godox download page update for "The problem is that when the shutter is set to high speed sync and continuous shooting in 1Dx and 1DxII cameras, the shutter sometimes returns to low speed"Could this be a similar problem with the Canon version of the transmitter?

Before trying to contact Godox, I wanted to know if there were any other settings that I might be able to check to fix this delay, or if there was a workaround besides reducing the shutter speed.

Is there a reason to keep both a 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G and a 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G lens for my Nikon D5100?

Aside from keeping it as a replacement, there's no reason to keep the 18-55 when you buy the 16-85.

The 16-85 is better than the 18-55 in almost every way, but only a bit. Slightly better range (though not so much that you will not get exactly the same shots with the 18-55 if you are just a little closer or farther away), a bit sharper (but only to the point where it stands out) ) In a test lab this will probably not make a real difference. Same aperture, a bit heavier. So an improvement, but a small one.

That being said, the 16-85 what, $ 700? It does not seem like a good investment to lose that kind of cash for a small improvement. There are many nice lenses for the price that make a great addition to your kit.

To answer your question, no, if you buy the 16-85, you do not have to keep the 18-55. Well, if I think you should buy the 16-85 at all …