film – Why are entire rolls weirdly out of focus on my Olympus Sylus Epic?

So I picked up an Olympus Infinity Stylus Epic point and shoot for cheap. The problem is that none of the photos come out in focus. The guy I bought it from said the same, but I figured I’d give it a go for the price. Everything about the camera seems to work: the lens moves without issue, the shots are properly exposed, the body and lens are pretty clean and free of damage. So my guess was that the autofocus elements were off somehow. If I look closely at the elements while it’s focusing, I can sometimes see the infrared lights triggering, so I know it still tries to focus.

The oddest part is that some of the photos don’t look like typical “out of focus” shots. Here is one that justseems like the focus was off.

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Pretty typical. And this shot looks like it focused too close (though that grass was closer than the supposed minimum focus distance, I believe. Like less than a foot from the camera).

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Then there’s things like this,

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where part of the door is in focus, but everything else, even at the same distance, is out of focus. And this, where there’s almost a ghost image of the grass and leaves in focus near the bottom surrounded by blur.

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I’ve been shooting film for a few years and I’m stumped. I’ve asked around elsewhere and haven’t had much luck. Is the autofocus just going bad? It is a 30 year old plastic camera, after all. Maybe the lens starts retracting while the aperture is still open?

My only other thought is that maybe the film isn’t laying flat, like the pressure plate isn’t aligned properly. I could only find a few examples of photos where that happened, and it looks a bit similar. But what about the grass and the door? Is only one of the three elements working properly? Is that even possible? It happens both with the spot metering/focus and the standard autofocus.

I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated. I’d like to fix it or get it repaired if possible instead of consigning it to parts. Thank you!

air travel – Is it safe to film during airplane take off and landing?

Recently I saw may youtuber reviewing flight experience and the common shot I saw is the take off and landing.

My question is,

  1. Is it safe to use electronic device to film the take off and landing ? (I assumed most youtuber is using Gopro kind of camera)

  2. Is it allowed to use electronic device to film the take off and landing ?

I have been researching and the answer is quite broad. and mostly they are talking about a snapping photo, not a clip video. but still, conclusion is passenger should keep everything in the front pocket or under the seat during take off and landing.

pentax – Can I still use film after the film door accidentally opened?

pentax – Can I still use film after the film door accidentally opened? – Photography Stack Exchange

pentax – opened film door

so, i just loaded up my film camera then 2 minutes later the door popped open and i think i have ruined it 🙁 i attempted to wind it back up and closed the door again but since that i have been able to take any photos and my camera says ‘0’ someone please help on what i should do!!!! ASAP is my film completely ruined? is there a way i can save it? is it safe to open the door again in a dark room to attempt to fix this someone just please help

( camera is a pentax iqzoom ezy)

plotting – How to solve thin film equation?

             I want to solve thin film equation, but I don't understand 
 which method is useful 
            for this type or differtial equation. Please suggest.
           vz = !(
           *SubscriptBox(((PartialD)), (z))(h(r, 
            t))); (CapitalGamma) (r, t) = 
                A0*Exp((-2*r^2)/we^2); z = 0; vx = 0;

                 (Rho)*g *h - (Gamma)*1/r !(
                *SubscriptBox(((PartialD)), (r))((r*h(r, t)))) - 2*(Eta)*!(
                   *SubscriptBox(((PartialD)), (z))((vz(r, 
                      t)))) = (CapitalGamma) (r, t)

Thin film

Radioactive lens effects seen on film?

I have a Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4, one of the more common lenses with a thoriated rear element. I’ve owned it for forty years, and a couple times left 400 speed film in the camera for several months with the lens mounted, and never seen any effect.

Why?

First, between the lens and the film is a mirror and shutter curtain (in an SLR — in a Speed Graphic with an Aero Ektar, there’s more distance, as well as a dark slide in almost all cases).

Second, because the primary radiation from decaying thorium is alpha particles (helium nuclei stripped of their electrons); they have very little penetrating power (in most cases, a few inches of air or a single sheet of paper will stop nearly all of them, never mind the metal reflective coating and glass of an SLR mirror). Virtually no alpha particles will penetrate metal parts of the camera body or lens body. Therefore the only radiation that could expose the film must pass through the reflex mirror, its mount plate (usually thin metal), and the shutter curtain (either opaque cloth as in my Spotmatic SP or metal blades as in my Ricoh Singlex II) — and again, that isn’t going to happen with alpha, or not enough of it to matter.

Now, most of these radioactive lenses are fifty-some years old (some as much as three decades older than that), so of course they have other decay products mixed with the thorium in the thoriated element(s), but most natural decay paths still produce primarily alpha radiation, with occasional beta (loose positrons, which produce gamma photons when they annihilate with an electron) and almost never direct gamma emission; beta penetrates more than alpha, but so little is produced that it won’t expose the film in a reasonable time, nor (apparently) will the gamma produced by beta annihilations.

So, bottom line, even several months with the lens mounted on an SLR and 400 speed film loaded in the camera produces no noticeable fogging, at least in my experience since the early 1980s. The answer might be different if the camera shutter was locked open and mirror up (with lens capped, I presume), but that would be very, very unusual situation.

film – 155a Speedlite Flash not firing from hotshoe on Canon AE-1

Like the title says the hot shoe won’t fire the flash from some reason. I have the shutter speed set to 60 and the f stop on auto as I should. The test button on the 155a fires and shorting two of the hot shoe connectors fires the flash but the shutter button won’t for whatever reason. I can see that the camera picks up the the flash unit because the light meter is locked on the appropriate f stop but I have no luck getting it to fire the flash. Using the sync port on a different, non-hot shoe flash unit works but I have no way of testing sync port on the 155a. I’ve also tried cleaning the hot shoe connections.

Any help would be appreciated.

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