Kit lens – manual mode dark in "picture mode" and normal in "recording mode" [Canon T5i]

I took some pictures with my Canon T5i + Rokinon 35mm T1.5 Cine and it was normal. Then I switched to my kit lens 18-55mm (which is an auto lens relative to the bezel). Then I switched back to my Rokinon lens.

The problem is that the live view is too dark when shooting in manual mode, but when I see the picture after that, it is as expected (much brighter). But when I record, the light is normal. The LCD shows it exactly the same when I see the picture after shooting.

The main problem is that when I'm about to record, I can hardly see anything, even if you set the ISO level higher and reduce the shutter speed (with 1.5 Apperture). It started right now, before it worked really well.

PS: In AV and TV modes, the brightness is just as normal as manual recording with manual mode.

PS 2: When I use the kit lenses, the light is the same in the image and shooting modes (in manual mode) as in the Rokinon.

So, what could have happened? What can I do to solve this?

Thank you in advance!

Cleaning – What are these stripes on the lens element? How to remove?

Looking closely at the images provided, someone seems to have tried to remove the lens element with the wrong tool. This left stripes of light on the surface of the element. From this perspective, you now have several options, from safe to diy, depending on the value of the lens (your influence / price).

The safest way is to leave it as it is

Small stripes like these should not change the lens properties. If you do not mind that the lens looks and / or has no money, the safest solution is to keep it as it is. You probably will not notice it on your photos.

Safe: professional repainting

If your lens is a vintage car and you want this lens to have a brand new look, you can ask an optics specialist to re-coat the lens (under $ 100, but may take a while). Vintage lenses are easier to re-coat than modern ones because of the softer and more primitive coating techniques (as opposed to multiple coating, oil-free treatment and hard metal coating).

Safe alternative: get another copy

If this lens is not rare and rather inexpensive, you may consider buying another one that looks good.

DIY: Remove coating yourself

The flickering community provides some instructions for removing the lens coating. This lens shop has a good one.
Attention, removing the lens coating is an abrasive process, not a chemical. This can cause your element to become non-spherical, introducing additional optical aberrations into your lens. This learning page illustrates the process, the outcome, and the risks associated with this type of operation.

More information can be found in this interesting thread on photrio.

Repair – What is this peripheral haze of a lens element? What can you do about it?

The back element of a lens has some turbidity on the front surface (not accessible when the lens is fully assembled). Based on lens diagrams, I think it's between the two back elements, but I can not figure out how to separate them from the case.

What is the probable cause of the cloudiness? What effect does this have on pictures, as the haze is only on the edge and the rear element? Can I do something if I can not separate the elements?

peripheral haze

Cleaning – What are these stripes on the lens and how do I remove them?

The front of the front element of a lens has stripes that are visible only when light shines through at a certain angle. They do Not seem to be scratches. The element looks good in normal lighting. I have not fully tested the lens yet to determine the effect on images. I expect a minimal effect, maybe a little more glare.

They look like plaster or water stains, but I can not remove them. I tried it with peroxide, vinegar, 70% isopropyl alcohol, 90% isopropyl alcohol, detergent and water. I left each solution on the lens for about a minute.

What are these stripes? Could they have been caused by improper cleaning by the previous owner of the lens? How can they be removed?

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Autofocus – Nikon D750 lens mount problem

From your description, it sounds as if you would not always turn the lens completely so that the mounting catch clicks into place (the clicking sound). Be sure to turn the lens so that it is tight and locks in the turnstile.

If you do not fully turn and lock the lens, the lens communication electrical contacts are not fully aligned or aligned properly. In this case, the camera body can not talk to the lens and control it.

But if the lens does not feel that it is mainly spinning Do not use force when attaching or removing lenses, If the lens does not feel right and it looks like several lenses have this problem, you need to have the camera body serviced.

How does dust get into a lens?

I've recently seen someone offering a second-hand Nikon 70-200mm VR II lens for a good price. The only downside that was mentioned was that there is some dust behind the front panel.

How could this dust get there, because this lens is a completely weatherproof inner focus lens.

lens – What is a fast bokeh technique and how can I achieve it?

This is a whirl-y-bokeh, an often desirable mistake that often occurs with some vintage lenses and lenses. There are some known lenses for which this characteristic is characteristic, especially the Soviet Zenith Helios 40-2 85mm F1.5 which is still produced. You can find this lens on Ebay for ~ $ 600. If you have enough adventures, you can upgrade the cyclop night vision 85mm f1.5 (without built-in diaphragm), but it is obviously the same glass for 10% of the price.

There's also a different focal length from Helios that can produce this effect, though not so well, and MUCH less expensive (I've bought $ 47 for my order from Ukraine, but if you look hard you can find it cheaper ) Zenith Helios 44-2 58mm (1: 2), A: But you have to work and get the right kind of background / backlight. B: You probably need to use a full-screen camera and c: you have to shoot wide.

I really like the Helios 44-2 a lot and I also have an adapter to get a focus that works pretty well. The lens is very beautiful and has many imperfections that give the image character, but I can not focus on my Canon full-frame body infinitely, because the rear element protrudes too far back and the mirror is stuck to it. I can only use it up to 8 m from the motif – good enough for portraits. There are proposals online to downgrade the adapter, but that causes other problems – the inability to focus on infinity … I hear that there are no mirror issues when used on Nikon bodies? No problems with my cut-off sensor body, but the swirly-bokeh is much easier to get when the lens is mounted on a full frame.

PROCESSED:
I now have a fixation solution for the mirror shutter (only confirmed for Helios 44-2 58mm f / 2 on Canon full-frame chassis):
http://jakubsisak.tumblr.com/post/128680966703/helios-44-2-58-mm-modification-for-canon-full

Lens – Should I remove UV filters from lenses to take pictures?

The point of UV filtering the image quality is quite lower than that of films because the color filters used with sensors tend to be slightly more specific than the sensitivity of the film emulsion. To make a difference, you need UV filters that turn off the UV light in the near visible range. These are quite expensive and especially affect lenses that tend in backlit outdoor shots to purple fringing.

Another important idea in the digital age would be the protection of plastic lenses (organic substances such as Canada balsam are no longer so common) from premature aging of the skin. This primarily concerns hard UV, an exclusive concern in the open air.

In terms of a slightly better initial color balance and possibly help with lenses that tend to violet color fringes, the near visible UV is the only problem. Which illumination even Has UV in it? Incandescent lamps, in particular halogen. Most interior lighting today is LED or fluorescent. And of course Flash. Although Flash has UV components, they are usually reduced by using appropriate filters on the flash itself.

After going through the options, it's pretty clear that indoors, only very expensive UV filters with good blocking of near-visible UV filters could make a difference, and that difference rarely has the chance to have any effect. Art objects with strong pigments that require a light bulb for correct evaluation could be the kind of thing that improves the chances of getting better results after white balance, but you will probably get a better distinction if you use a DSC-F828 with RGBE Note that instead of three four primary color receptors instead of RGBG, note that this increased spectral color resolution has not survived in the market, although it should be easier to capture colors that are difficult with white balance.

Now do not talk about art photography, but about product photography. They do not work with UV-loaded lighting or strong, iridescent pigments.

Its UV filter is mainly used to protect the lens. Since you do not achieve a noticeable increase in image quality, there is no compromise for a decrease in image quality (waves, stripes, scattered light, doohickeys). Therefore, the filter should only be kept in the visible area on "registers" for the highest quality filters that do not really do anything.

How much do you want to pay for nothing?