Lighting – How to photograph a couple disappearing from their wedding at night?

After the whole theory has gone through, I almost always find that going out and "playing" with a camera is the best way to get a grip on reality. However …

Which camera do you use?
Many high-end models have a built-in focus assist lamp and / or can use the flash as a focus assistant. Your camera may already have this feature without you being aware of it.

Focusing with a flashlight, which is removed after focusing and before taking the photo, will give you great results. If you have three or more arms or are particularly adept at doing N things at the same time, you can operate the focus flashlight yourself, but an assistant can do this "very useful." The subjects (here bride and groom) must be told what and why the flashlight, so they do not react negatively.

A video light or similar "lighting bank" or photofloods can be useful, but to get the signal-to-noise ratio that a wedding normally demands, you may want to be able to deliver higher levels of light than a video light can provide over the entire scene. Look at the comments below to get the performance required for a given level of illumination from a "video light".

A flash with a reasonably high guide number normally illuminates a relatively large group of people relatively well. Anything that has a guide number of 50 or more is about as powerful as you need it to be. Lower guide numbers (eg 30 or more) are sufficient for most situations.

Illuminance "video light":

Whether a video light or similar portable "lighting bench" is useful to get the signal-to-noise ratio that a wedding normally requires depends on the performance of your camera at higher ISO settings, the area you want to illuminate, and The wattage from light that you are ready to use.

Modern LED white light sources can potentially produce more than 100 lumens per watt (the top LEDs now being over 150 l / W). However, the total power of the packaged units after reflectors, diffusers, and lens / glass is normally less than 100 l / W. I have used 75 l / W in the formula below. Acceptable lighting conditions depend on the camera and context. I have used 300 lux = 300 lumens / watt as acceptable level. 300 lux are "beautiful and bright" to the eye, but only a very small part of daylight (full midday sun = 100,000 lux.). You have to decide for yourself which lighting conditions allow an appropriate quality.

  • Back of the mental shell: 300 lux = 300 Ev.
    Since modern cameras resolve about 0.1 EV, 300 lux = 3000 x 1 bit level = 11+ bit dynamic range is available at full sensitivity. 12 bits = 4096, 14 bits = 16386. That means you'll probably need about 2000 lux to get a modern, high-quality sensor with full 14-bit dynamic range. In practice, it would probably be more like 10,000 lux. Below that level, you still get good image quality, but you're missing the dynamic range.

Based on 75 l / W,
Lux ~ = Watt x 75 / square meter lit for LED based lighting.
For example, you want 300 lux
Watt = 300 x m2 / 75 = 4 W / m2
or lit about 4 watts per square meter.
No acceptance or consideration of reflection losses etc.

ie for smaller areas not many watts are needed at all – 10 watts of LED lighting should only be enough for the couple, but
For example, if you want to have an area of ​​10 feet x 10 feet or about 10 square meters, you will need about 40 watts of LED lighting to achieve a 300 lux illuminance. This is quite feasible, BUT many LED video lights would be well below 40 watts.

Recommended illuminance:

From here

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What should I look for in a camera for Night Sky Photography?

I am a beginner and plan to buy a mirrorless camera for Night Sky Photography.

Here are some questions I have while thinking about which camera to buy. My maximum budget for the body is $ 1000.

  1. Is there a reason to opt for DSLR instead?
  2. Is there a big advantage to full screen sensors over APS-C?
  3. Are there any recommendations for a specific brand because it's my first camera that has a learning curve?
  4. I opted for Sony A 7 II or Sony A 6400. Should I worry about the e-mount (if I would like to upgrade the camera a few years later)?

to spend a night at a transit airport in the Schengen area on the day my visa expires

I received my 15-day visa [from 10 to 24 November] in Finland and booked my ticket [from 13 to 24 November], but there is a small problem, when I return from Finland, there is one Stopover in Frankfurt Germany The last 12 hours, so my return flight from Frankfurt to Algiers on 25th November at 9:20.
is that possible?

Trains – Will Eurostar have many noisy passengers on a Saturday night?

I just booked a Eurostar trip from Brussels to London on a Saturday night and left at 20:22 in the standard class from Brussels. It's the last move of the day.

After booking I realized that the last train on a Saturday night could have many noisy passengers – eg. People who came across the channel for a convention and are traveling home, possibly loud / drunk / unruly / etc. That's not the travel experience I'm looking for. Is that to be expected?

If so, does upgrading to Standard Premier help?

Night – How do I start painting with light?

Each scene with isolated elements that are much brighter than their surroundings is a fair game. For the bright lights, so that everything else is suppressed and go to work. An exposure of 1/4 to 5 seconds works well: you have enough time to do interesting things, but not too much to mess it up ;-).

My favorite since I have a decent camera as a kid is the annual Christmas tree. You can take it out of focus:


(The front focus and the rear focus give the bokeh slightly different shapes, the size of which is mainly determined by how blurry the image is, but it also depends on the lens and the aperture.)

You can move the camera during exposure:

Spun around

Zooming during the exposure results in a characteristic effect:


You can do this in combination, eg. For example, with the following option, which was not focused when zooming:

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Use your imagination and have fun!

By the way, it can be difficult to stop a brighter scene. These images were taken at ISO 100 with openings at 1: 11 for 1 to 4 seconds in a darkened room. An ND filter is your friend with brighter lights (eg daylight at the end of a tunnel).

Lighting – ISO how high is right at night

This is up to you, if it works, it works … unless it does not work.

It depends on the subject and the situation, whether you turn on an extra light or not. if you use candles or the bat signal to light your night scene. You could use a flash or not, you might need a high speed action, or you can create artistic looks with movement.

You can use noise reduction software or leave the noise as a texture.

There are newer sensors, newer cameras and older ones. Some high-ISO cameras are just a marketing ploy, others are really useful.

That's to Brett. You have to decide.

Transit Visas – Travel at night from Gimpo Airport to Incheon Airport

I travel from Osaka Airport in Japan via Gimpo Airport and Incheon Airport to New Delhi in India. I arrive at Gimpo International Airport around 18:30 and the next day at 11:30 am I have a flight from Incheon International Airport. So I would spend about 16 to 17 hours in Korea. I have an Indian passport and a Japan visa.
My questions are:

(1) Do I need the transit visa and from where would I get it (Gimpo Airport or Korean Embassy in Osaka, Japan)?

(2) How would I drive from Gimpo to Incheon Airport, how much would the price be and how long would it take?

(3) At Incheon International Airport, are there any night-time facilities I can book in advance?

(4) Do both airports have closing and opening hours?

(5) How much time is needed for the entire visa procedure at both airports?