How to reduce shake on a Nikon DIGITAL DSLR 650-1300mm {2600mm-3900mm with adapters} zoom lens when on a tripod?

Nikon DIGITAL DSLR 650 1300mm zoom lens.
I have one of these lenses. In honour of this I bought a Zomei tripod. Tripod is of good quality but even so, the slightest breath of wind the lens shakes, creating at high magnification, the obvious effect to the image. Am I supposed to live with this? Or is there a way around it? I have seen a weight, a sandbag really, that can be suspended on a hook provided on the bottom of the tripod’s vertical mounting tube, but my nearby, long established camera shop in Stafford had no idea what I was talking about and are currently on lockdown anyway.
Assistance would be great with this please

Nikon Camera: Installing previous firmware version

My Nikon Z6 has been away for major repairs, including a new PCB.
It is apparently coming back with a new firmware update (3.12) installed.

Two questions:

  1. My saved settings for the camera (NCSET002.BIN) were made in the previous firmware (3.11). Can I still load this file into the camera which now has the new firmware?
  2. If not, can re-install firmware 3.11 to replace 3.12?

Why won’t my Nikon D5200 go into bulb in quick response remote mode when using a remote shutter release?

I’m burying what I believe to be the answer at the end after the explanation, feel free to jump to it.

I don’t have a D5200 but I do have a D7200, so using that and some research this is what I have.

“David Busch’s” Nikon D7200 Guide … says on page 184:

“There are three common types of lengthy exposures: timed exposures,
bulb exposures, and time exposures. The D7200 offers only the first
two (although time exposures are possible with certain remote
releases.
) …

I’m not sure whether this was a mistake or was true at the time but has changed due to firmware updates. In any case, my D7200 with the latest firmware does have all three.

My D7200 will go to Bulb while set to Quick Response, however going past Bulb brings me to Time.

In retrospect, Bulb makes no sense for an IR remote control (I used a KT-ML-L3 compatible) because Bulb nominally holds the shutter open until released and the remote simply sends an IR control pulse when pressed. In fact, putting my D7200 in Bulb and triggering the remote simply takes an exposure which is not what you normally want.

Moving the shutter setting beyond Bulb brings me to Time. It shows as Time in Live View and just – – (dash dash) in the view finder.

The Time setting works as you would expect to provide a Bulb-equivalent with the IR Remote, one IR button to start the exposure and a second one to stop the exposure. (Or three presses if the mirror up option is used.)

My Guess is that on your camera, Nikon eliminated the pointless and confusing Bulb selection for IR mode and went directly to the correct Time setting.

So Time is correct, forget Bulb.

In order for the IR to work it has to be set on in the menu. On my D7200 the menu is “Camera SymbolRemote Control mode (ML-L3)Quick-response remote (or Remote mirror-up, or 2 second delay). Note that Remote Control mode will toggle off if you turn off the camera and it will also time itself off if not used for a while.

Last but not least, make sure you IR remote is working! You stated that you hadn’t used the remote in a while, perhaps the battery is dead? Take your Smart Phone (it’s interesting that we now just assume everyone has one) and put it in camera mode. Point your remote at your smart phone camera and toggle the remote button. Do you see the remote LED lighting up in the phone display when you press the remote button? If not, you probably need a new battery for the remote.

As an aside, while the phone camera incorporates an IR filter, it is
not perfect. The intensity of the remote LED at close range is enough
to drive through the IR filter and be seen on the display. You can use
the same method to look for night time IR security systems.

Why am I getting dark black photos in P, S, and A mode on Nikon D5200?

Your correct image shows: ƒ/5.6, 1/500, ISO 800.

Your underexposed image shows: ƒ/9.0, 1/4000, ISO 400.

Your EXIF data shows a -5 EV Exposure Bias which seems to be correct, looking at your photos. This is most probably coming from the exposure compensation you applied (using the +- icon). All the other settings look okay.

Exposure compensation might stay unaltered if you do not do the proper reset procedure.

Check this video or your User Manual out for further info.

(Please let us know if this was the reason.)

nikon – Missing one image in a sequence with a dual card setup

Shooting with a Nikon D810 with two cards:

  • 64GB compact flash (Sandisk Extreme)
  • 32GB SD card (Sandisk Extreme Pro)

The camera is set set to write to both in Backup mode.
I photograph criminal scenes and it’s crucial these are captured securely and in sequence.

After photographing a scene, and in review of the cards I found two issues:

  • The first two images were on the compact flash card but missing from the SD card.
  • A random image in the sequence (image number 34 in a sequence of 60 images) was missing from the compact flash card but on the SD card.

No errors appeared at the time of shooting and cards were formatted in camera prior to shooting.

What can cause this to happen? And how do I assure this doesn’t happen again in the future?

nikon – missing one image in sequence

Shooting with a Nikon D810 on a 64GB compact flash (Scandisk Extreme) with an 32GBSD card (Scandisk Extreme Pro) backup (camera set to write to both)
After photographing a scene, and in review of the cards, the first 2 image were on the compact flash card but missing from the SD card, and a random image in the sequence (image number 34 in a sequence of 60 images) was missing from the compact flash card but on the SD card. No errors appeared at the time of shooting and cards were formatted in camera prior to shooting.
What can cause this to happen? and how do I assure this doesn’t happen again in the future?
(these are criminal scenes and crucial to be capture securely and in sequence)
Thank you

autofocus – Eye-AF from Nikon Z6 is inconsistent or fidgety

I have a Nikon Z6 – latest firmware (ver. 3.12, from October 2020). As far as I can remember since Eye-AF was first introduced in May 2019, I’ve been having a hard time have the eye-AF locked on the subject.

My camera’s autofocus would basically go haywire trying to lock it in. I don’t know what is wrong, or maybe I’m misusing it.

My expectation: eye-AF would lock onto an eye. If I wanted to, I would be able to press left or right on the panel and it would lock onto another eye.

What it is currently doing: it would fidget/jump around and tries to get a lock. I am half-clicking to maintain focus, but it would bounce around so bad that you can hear the mechanism “seek” the focus.

It does this regardless of which lens is attached, or the aperture settign. I have 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm F/1.8 lenses, and it does it with all of them. I am still able to capture great pictures; however this “fidget” thing is bothering me as obviously I need several shots to get what I need in focus.

It does this in the field and in the studio.

Any help, indicators, experience to resolve this would be greatly appreciated.

autofocus – Eye-AF from Nikon Z6 is in consistent or fidget

I have a Nikon Z6 – latest FW 3.12 (from oct 2020). As far as I can remember since Eye-AF was first introduced in May 2019 Ive been having a hard time have the eye-af locked on the subject.

My camera’s would basically go haywire trying to lock it in. I dont know what is wrong or maybe i’m miss-using it.

My expectation: eye-af would lock onto an eye. If i wanted to, i can press left or right on the panel and it would lock onto another eye.

What it is currently doing: it would fidget/jump around and TRIES to get a lock. I am half clicking to maintain focus but it would bounce around so bad that you can hear the mechanism “seek” the focus.

It does this regardless of the lens or the aperture. I have 35mm, 50mm, 85mm F1.8 and it does it to all the lens. I am still able to capture great picture however this “fidget” thing is bothering me as obviously i need several shots to get what I need in focus.

It does this in natural and in studio.

Any help, indicators, experience to resolve this would be greatly appreciated.

nikon d5100 – Is it normal to see a different exposure reading through viewfinder and LCD?

I have no experience with the D5100 but I would be very confident that the two displays should be the same if they are in fact meant to be measuring the same parameters.

If the two readings are not made essentially exactly simultaneously then it is possible for a number of factors to influence the result. In low light conditions a very small change in the degree of obstruction of light from a stronger light source can make a noticeable difference in exposure. The act of moving one’s head or arm or body even slightly may be enough to change readings depending on how far away the target was and the relationship of light sources.

In extreme cases, light entering via the viewfinder when your eye is not blocking it may cause the LCD reading to read as if there is more light on the subject than is actually there.

If it is not possible to read LCD and viewfinder values simultaneously by yourself you could use two people with one calling out the reading for the other person to confirm.

If the readings do differ under such controlled and simultaneous conditions then it suggests either that the camera is faulty (which seems unlikely) or that the two displays have somewhat different intended purposes (which also seems unlikely:-).