Photo Competition 2021-03-15: Reflections – Photography Stack Exchange

Theme

The theme of this contest is simple: photos where mirrors, windows, water, or other reflective surfaces were used to get reflections.

This theme was suggested by Eric S.

Voting Rules

  • Vote up as many images as you like
  • Please, up votes only! Do NOT vote down your competitors! If you don’t like an image, don’t vote
  • Voting closes on March 15, 2021 at 12:00 AM UTC. The winner will be chosen based on votes at that time

Submission Rules

  1. One photo submission per answer. Up to three (3) entries allowed.
  2. Post only photos taken by yourself or the person with you.
  3. All entries should include a line of text with the location, subject, and date.
  4. The submitted image must conform to this site’s content license, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 (CC BY-SA 4.0) with attribution required.
  5. Do not use this as a forum for photo critique. Use chat instead, or ask a new question about your image.

Next Contest

  • Suggest a theme for the next contest. Leave a single comment below in the format,

    Theme: <one sentence description>

  • Upvote the comment(s) with the theme you would like to see next time.

Good luck!

I will photoshop editing and photo retouching for $1

BASIC

General Image Enhancements (Lighting, Color, Contrast, Sharpen, Cropping) Color Correction Color Grading Simple Background Removal (one colored backgrounds without different structures/textures) STANDARD

Adding/Removing objects/persons Product Retouching Skin Retouching (Evening Skin Tone, Improving Skin Texture) Beauty Retouching Fashion Retouching Hair Retouching Body Shaping Complex Background Removal PREMIUM

High Resolution Retouching High End Retouching Advanced Skin Retouching (Frequency Separation, Dodging & Burning) Creating Makeup From Scratch Composite & Manipulation (use of multiple images) Old Photo Retouch & Restoration Colorization of Black & White photos Changing Facial Features(like a Photoshop Surgeon. I use a “golden ratio mask”. You can see an example retouch of this in the following artice, where I did the editing for Germany: https://www.boredpanda.com/how-countries-define-fashion-style-groomandstyle/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic

by: Designersaon
Created: —
Category: Art & Design
Viewed: 140


.(tagsToTranslate)retouch(t)photo(t)photoshop(t)editing(t)background(t)removel

photo editing – What is the importance of background color when removing the background?

While any color can serve you well, three ways have emerged that can help you:

White background

You simply have a white background and try to illuminate that so much, that the RGB value for this reaches 255/255/255 which means it is pure white.

Pro: Very clean image

Contra: Need to be careful not to overblow the background so much that the edges of the subject become blown out as well, if you have rim light on the subject, the edges are not that clearly defined anymore.

Chromagreen or Chromablue background

Similar with other chances and problems. As long as the color does not appear in your subject, it makes the whole process even easier, as you don’t need to exactly overblow the background and can have a variety of shades in here before it ceases to work.

Pro: Easier to pull off, does not need exact or even lighting

Contra: If there is not enough space between the subject and the background, you might end up with the chroma color shining onto your subject which pollutes the color on the edges of your subject. You can see that sometimes in older films when the telltale blueish rim spoils the special effects.

Variant: Grey Background

This one is a bit more work but with some advantage. If you want to insert a background texture anyways, a grey background lets you keep the natural shadows. You basically shoot the image with background, insert the final background and then blend the texture over your subject, masking out the subject itself. While this is technically not the same as killing the background, it might be an alternative in certain situations.

post processing – How does the Windows Photo App Image Enhancer work?

The Windows image viewer app provides an image enhancement filter as shown in below picture.

enter image description here

While the details of what exactly this algorithm does may not be publicly available, I am interested in the steps one would have to undertake in order to obtain a roughly similar result. As a plus, are there any open source versions of such an image enhancement algorithm that you can direct me to?

darkness – Which paper has to be used to print a photo, which is low contrast and mostly grey?

Generally glossy papers will have a deeper black point than matte. The exact ideal depends on the type of printer. If using photographic prints, then it depends on the characteristics of the photo paper itself. If using inkjet based (either die or preferably pigment) then the ink system is also going to matter a lot for having not only deep blacks, but fine detail.

That said, your image honestly does not appear all that difficult to print for a good printer. I don’t know much about whitewall, but I could personally print this without issue on my Pixma Pro-1. The image doesn’t even have any deep blacks, so paper type probably doesn’t matter in this case, just the level of detail in the color that can be produced by the ink system or photographic pigments.

I might actually try it on a matte or luster paper more to go with the feel of the image, which I don’t think would look right with glossy due to the highlights from light falling on it. You want something subdued and probably with a nice texture. The traditional problem with matte paper is that you lose deep blacks, but you don’t need them here, so it actually makes it easier.

image processing – How to add hexagon mosaic to a photo?

I want to put a hexagon mosaic on the area of the picture (the effect is similar to the figure below):

enter image description here

ImageCompose( img, 
 ImageTransformation(img, 18 Floor(#/18) + 1 &, DataRange -> Full, 
  Masking -> Rectangle({50, 50}, {150, 150}), Padding -> Transparent))

enter image description here

But the above code can only generate square mesh mosaic in the specified area. What can I do to make a hexagon mosaic?

Image used in Code:

enter image description here

depth of field – How to take a photo of a close-up object without focus stacking?

135mm on a full-frame is actually a lot. If you shoot at f/8, your camera is looking out of an “entrance pupil” that has a diameter of 135mm/8 = 16.875mm. That means the far background will be blurred by a disk in the image that would cover 16.875mm in your focus plane. Which is a lot for an iPhone, less so for a car. So what about close background and foreground? Essentially you take that 16.875mm in the focus plane and scale it by the percentage of distance you are away from the focusing plane to figure out your blur disk diameter.

Let’s try it on something of iPhone size (6cm×14cm). Settings (on a crop camera) at 71.5mm/4.8 which is only somewhat smaller than what you are working with. Turns out that the working distance for the following shot is about 40cm. So if we tilt the image so that going the length of the device of 14cm will change depth by 7cm (a 30° angle), we get 7cm/40cm=17.5% displacement, and 17.5% of 71.5mm/4.8 is about 2.6mm which we expect the blur disk to be at the bottom end of the device if the top of the device is in-focus.Device

The results appear to be in a similar ballpark as the handwaving applied here.

Now if you double the distance, the blur in relation to the subject becomes about half. The subject in the image also shrinks to about half which would additionally reduce blurriness, except that you’d crop until the subject again fills the frame. So that doesn’t really count.

But in general, the recipe is sound: double the distance, half the blur in relation to the subject. However, if instead of cropping you adjust the focal length to account for the doubling of the distance while retaining your aperture number, the entrance pupil diameter also doubles, appearing at equal angular size from your subject as it did at the smaller distance. Which means that the blur in relation to your subject geometry remains the same.

So varying the distance while keeping the framing by also varying focal length does not really achieve a lot, while either increasing your aperture number or placing the subject in increasingly smaller portions of the image (and cropping afterwards, or by using a crop sensor in the first place) will help.

As a stupid rule of thumb: large subject wants large sensor area and aperture, small subject wants small sensor area and aperture.

Macro/closeup shooters almost invariably work with the smallest apertures their camera has available. Which may warrant making it artificially even smaller by stacking a teleextender between camera body and (macro) lens.

It depends on the size of your subjects on whether you already are in that “narrow aperture at all costs” part of the fight for depth of field or still outside that region where depth of field is the concern overriding every other image quality aspect.

Photo Competition 2021-03-01: Straight out of camera

Theme

This theme seeks your best photojournalist-style straight-out-of-camera JPEGs: no adjustments, curves, tweaks, post-processing, cropping, or straightening is allowed. Think “Polaroid”, “Instax”, “Kodamatic”, etc.

Be as creative as you can before pressing the shutter button: external filters, in-camera filters, in-camera HDR functionality, scene modes, or other creative settings are acceptable if set/configured before the image is captured.

This also means no processed raw images: shoot RAW+JPEG if you want, but only submit the JPEG produced from the camera.

Scans of film shots are welcome to submit too. Please use your best judgment as to what constitutes “creative darkroom techniques” or scan touchups. Follow the spirit of the rule as best as you can.

There’s no way to enforce the SOC rule, this is all on the honor system. Let’s have some fun and see what we can get, Polaroid-style. =)

Voting Rules

  • Vote up as many images as you like
  • Please, up votes only! Do NOT vote down your competitors! If you don’t like an image, don’t vote
  • Voting closes on March 1, 2021 at 12:00 AM UTC. The winner will be chosen based on votes at that time

Submission Rules

  1. One photo submission per answer. Multiple entries are encouraged, but please don’t spam answers. The aim is quality over quantity.
  2. Post only photos taken by yourself or the person with you.
  3. All entries should include a line of text with the location, subject, and date.
  4. The submitted image must conform to this site’s content license, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 (CC BY-SA 4.0) with attribution required.
  5. Do not use this as a forum for photo critique. Use chat instead, or ask a new question about your image.

Next Contest

  • Suggest a theme for the next contest. Leave a single comment below in the format,

    Theme: <one sentence description>

  • Upvote the comment(s) with the theme you would like to see next time.

Good luck!