Photo Competition 2021-07-05: Street Photography

Theme: Street Photography

Wikipedia says it quite well:

A type of documentary photography that features subjects in candid
situations within public places such as streets, parks, beaches,
malls, political conventions and other settings.

This theme was suggested by Vian Esterhuizen.

Voting Rules

  • View the submissions sorted by active to give every submitter a fair chance
  • Vote up as many images as you like
  • Please, up votes only! Do NOT vote down your competitors! If you don’t like an image, don’t vote
  • Voting closes on July 5, 2021 at 12:01 AM UTC (00:01 UTC if you prefer a 24-hour time). The winner will be chosen based on votes at that time.

Submission Rules

  1. One photo submission per answer. Up to three (3) entries allowed.
  2. Post only photos taken by yourself or the person with you.
  3. All entries should include:
    • a title for the photo
    • a location and date, if known
    • camera, lens, and exposure settings, if known
    • any other explanatory notes, comments, etc., that you want to include (completely optional)
  4. The submitted image must conform to this site’s content license, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 (CC BY-SA 4.0) with attribution required.
  5. Do not use this as a forum for photo critique. Use chat instead, or ask a new question about your image.

Next Contest

Suggest a theme by writing a new answer at the Photo of the Week Theme Ideas thread. Please make sure to check the PotW theme ideas Archive first, to make sure you aren’t recycling a theme.

The highest-voted theme will be the next theme.

Good luck!

Should I shoot color or black and white 35mm film to learn photography fundamentals?

I want to practice composition, or the basics of photography in reality. From what I’ve read, some people say shoot color, or only shoot black and white to learn composition right.

From my personal opinion as a beginner, I think if I want to practice composition and play with shadows, angles, etc. shooting in black and white is cheaper and I can practice it more.

I would like to hear your thoughts about what would be the wisest option in terms of practicing composition and photography skills in general.

Also I’m a big fan of color, if you can recommend me a cheap color film it would be great.

35mm – Film photography – what causes the following effect/error on a single frame of a developed roll of film?

I shot the following picture with a Canon AE-1 Program on a roll of Ilford HP5 400 (I pushed the roll to 800). I developed it using Ilfosol 3 and scanned it with Epson scanner V370. As you can see, there are – I’m not sure how to describe them – smudge like shadows corresponding to the perforations. The shadows are only on the third frame of the roll. I am left to wonder what caused these on only one frame, and what can I do in the future to prevent it from happening?

Smudges on film perforations

The effect is even easier to see on the negative:

Negative roll

photography – Photo backpack as first carry-on luggage for travelling with Ryanair

While your question is not a great fit for a Q&A website as bags come and go, there’s something to be addressed here:

Ryanair restrictions — this is a common mistake, don’t fret — are not 40 x 25 x 20.

They are 42 x 30 x 20. You can find this information at https://corporate.ryanair.com/news/new-bag-policy-from-november-will-cut-check-bag-fees-reduce-boarding-delays/ unlike the advertised limits these have no mercy at all. That’s why Ryanair communicates smaller dimensions — people will always go over it and this avoids a lot of conflict. But if you want to make an informed choice, that’s the sizer.

A number of really great backpacks fit those dimensions, I posted a few to https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64333074

There will be a vlog about bags this size at https://smallba.gs/ stay tuned.

product photography – What causes color artifacts on the strings while shooting guitars?

To anyone reading this in the distant future 2021 and beoynd.

You can also remove the aliasing by capturing red, green and blue separately.

Assuming you are using a tripod, you can shoot with color filters or gels in front of the camera. (Or gels in front of strobes, but that requires a pretty dark room.)

Take one shot per red, green and blue color. Either shoot in black and white on the camera, or convert each shot to black and white in post.

Then, merge the three layers, with each layer representing red, green and blue. This can be done in Photoshop or with tools such as ImageMagick.

This will remove any aliasing, but requires that the setup is stable enough to not move the camera or subject between exposures.

The idea is not a new one.

enter image description here

Are there any downsides to using white printer paper as background for product photography?

We bought following background paper roll carton for product photography and we are very pleased with our setup and results, especially after post processing.

Background super-white:
http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-tetenal-super-white-background-paper-roll-1-35-x-11m/p1538844

We compared this super-white to basic printer paper, which is a little whiter and slightly noticable on screen before post-production.

To get the best white results without post-production we are thinking about buying a large cheaper din a0 printer paper roll, and using that on top of the carton.

Are there any disadvantages using printer paper, since it is chemically enhanced to get pure white, reflecting more of uv-light?

Our photo table and lightning setup is like following (just with paper carton background instead of plastic):

enter image description here

telephoto – Good tripod head for Moon photography set up

telephoto – Good tripod head for Moon photography set up – Photography Stack Exchange

photography basics – Continue taking photos from smartphone or buy a camera to practice?

I’ve recently been scanning a large collection of photos that we took decades ago.
I used a large 35mm SLR with several lenses and filters while my wife used a small fixed lens camera (35mm and before that a 110).

One thing I now notice about our photos is that my best photos are far better than her best (of course, why else would I lug all that heavy, bulky, inconvenient equipment with me?).
But, I also notice that I have far more really bad photos.

By good and bad I’m not talking about composition, but about things like exposure and depth of field.
I had full control over those aspects, and frequently got them wrong.
She had no choice, and given the tiny aperture, especially in the 110, her photos were generally all correctly exposed and focused.

In retrospect it’s easy to see that, like far too many other people, I incorrectly thought that a great camera would take great photographs.
In a few instances it did.
But in most cases all it did was provide me with multiple ways of making a mess of it.

Had I been intending to make photography a large part of my life, spending countless hours processing and printing my own film, practicing with hundreds of rolls, then buying that camera and lenses was a good start.

But that wasn’t my intent, and if I had it all to do over again, I’d go with a small and convenient point and shoot camera.
Using that, rather than worrying about all the settings, I might have concentrated more on composition, and learned what makes one photograph so much better than another.

That might have led me to be much more interested in the technical details of photography.
I would eventually have started stumbling over the limited capabilities of my equipment:

  • “The subject is so small, and enlarging the print only makes it look grainy.”
  • “The background is so well focused that the subject blends into it.”
  • “Everything else looks okay, but the subject’s face is totally washed out.”
  • “It’s great, but Fred moved his arm and it looks weird.”

I’d have learned:

  • why and how a telephoto lens could have been used to zoom in on a distant subject.
  • why and how a large aperture could have reduced the depth of field and blurred the background while keeping the subject in focus.
  • why and how underexposing the image could have provided perfect exposure for the subject making it stand out against the darker background.
  • why and how a faster shutter speed could have eliminated the motion blur.
    (But that would have needed a larger aperture, which would have reduced the field depth, so perhaps a “faster film” ISO setting would have been better.)

Today, the cost of film and processing is no longer an issue, so it’s cheap and easy to take hundreds of practice photos.

I’d suggest that you stick with your small and convenient camera and develop your composition skills.
As you get better, you’ll start running into “if only I could have …” situations.

If and when this bothers you enough, you’ll eventually buy a camera with detachable lenses and manually adjustable settings.
And since you’ll already have a basic understanding of why you need these extra features, you’ll quickly learn to use them properly.

equipment recommendation – What is my next step to upgrade my gear for wildlife photography?

I currently have an entry-level dSLR, the Canon EOS 4000D with two lenses: the EF 75-300f/4-5.6 III and an EF-S 18-55 f/4-5.6 III.

I’ve had this camera for 18 months and I feel I’ve outgrown this now (it was my very first camera). I’ve gotten into wildlife photography; birds, animals, insects, butterflies but I also enjoy landscapes as well (really whatever takes my fancy when out).

I have found that the camera and lenses I have just don’t zoom in and give the quality of images that I want. The images are not as clear and vivid as I would like and I can’t zoom in enough to make the images sharp and that look as good as I want. (I’m fairly sure it’s not my photography skills lol).

What would anyone recommend as the next step up? Should I be looking at swapping the camera body or system? Or should I be looking at my lenses, other gear, or technique?

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