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image quality – If I want to shoot darker shots, is it better to increase the lighting and then darken in post to retain clarity?

The look you are going for is known as low key lighting. It is not necessary for the room to be dark. You just need to put enough light on your subject that there is a large enough difference between the shadows and the highlights.

I took this self portrait by shooting into a mirror in a fully lit room. By using a good amount of flash power I could use a fairly narrow aperture at a low ISO setting and a moderately fast shutter speed. There was a black curtain about 15 feet behind me. The only difference here is the direction of the light with reference to the lens’ optical axis, and of course full color instead of monochrome. For my shot it was at about a 45º angle to one side and also a 45º angle below my subject. (Me!) For the example on the question it is at about a 90º angle to the side but at the same height as the subject’s face.

self portrait

For that kind of work, ISO 6400 is awful high with any camera. You’re going to give up a lot of dynamic range as well as detail (via the noise reduction required) when shooting at such a high sensitivity. Here’s how dynamic range drops off in the 6D as the ISO setting is increased. (As tested by DxO Mark here. To use the link you’ll need to click on measurements–>dynamic range–>screen to view the info shown below). I’ve included the 5D Mark III in the comparison because it is interesting that the 6D seems to have tested at about a 1/2 stop advantage in terms of DR, even though the SNR tab shows both have near identical Signal-to-Noise Ratio curves.

Dynamic range graphic

Here’s the SNR tab from the same link above.

SNR graphic

Although I haven’t used the 6D, I find that with my similar 5D Mark III, ISO 1250 or 1600 is about as high as I want to push it in a controlled environment. When an image is properly exposed at those setting, noise is very manageable without too much loss of detail. And there are not really many reasons to ever push it that far. ISO 800 and below are very clean on the current crop of Canon EOS FF bodies.

If you can add light to lower your ISO at least a couple of stops then that is the best solution. As you add light to your subject and reduce your ISO you can keep the background dark by shading the background from the light of the flash and closing your aperture if needed. If you are using f/1.8, try f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, etc. until the background is dark enough. With normal flash, you can’t shorten the shutter speed beyond your camera’s sync speed (1/180 sec for the 6D) without one of the shutter curtains blocking a portion of the sensor when the flash fires. The main concern isn’t how dark or bright the scene itself is, but rather how much difference in brightness there is between the subject and the backdrop.

If you can’t add light, then if the camera isn’t already on a tripod put it on one and lengthen the shutter speed enough to lower the ISO a couple of stops or more. In that case you will probably need to pull the shadows down when you edit.

And just another tip when selecting an ISO setting: In general, when you are concerned about noise you should probably avoid the + 1/3 stop ISO settings (125, 250, 500, 1000, 2000, etc.) with current Canon EOS cameras. This is due to the way EOS cameras adjust for ISO settings not 100 x powers of 2 (i.e. 100, 400, 800, etc). Some tests show less noise at ISO 1250 than at ISO 125!

nikon – Is it possible to focus on a fixed distance for self portrait using Point and Shoot camera for a decent photo?

I have Nikon B500 point and shoot camera. I have tripod too. It’s pretty nice camera if you have to take photos of others. But I want to take self portraits. There’s no other person available to take photos. Even if I find one, they’ll get irritated soon.

Now, the camera has many focus settings which you can use while taking photo of a person. All you have to do is just focus on subject/person (by half-press the shutter button) and click it. That’s it.

But in case of self portrait, you can’t focus on yourself, because you’ll be the same person.

I use sef-timer, which is great, but problem is, it takes a blurry photo, because it doesn’t know where to focus. There are many focus settings like (you don’t necessarily have to go through them, just providing in case you need details):

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For me, default settings works fine most of the time. My current settings are PRE-AF autofocus and Face Priority.

But the reason I’m getting blurred/not so good photo is because Face priority determines focus only before timer starts. But at that moment, I’m not in the frame. So it just doesn’t work.

I have SnapBridge app too, for remote photography, but it doesn’t give flexibility to change focus when I’m in frame or once the timer has started. I mean it’s just for clicking the photo. So it’s quite useless for me.

I hope you understood me problem. There isn’t any problem with camera, it’s just I don’t know what can I do make the camera somehow focus on distance where I’m standing.

So, is there any other way to somehow fix the focus at some point and then use self timer so my image is sharp because focus is proper? Somewhat like they can do in DSLR with a fixed length focus? Or any other workaround that fixes this problem?

Do I have to shoot a whole film roll on the same ISO?

The ISO of a film roll indicates how sensitive that whole film roll is to light. That’s a chemical property of the film roll, which you cannot change shot by shot.

The ISO “setting” on your camera does not actually set the ISO of your film, as that is physically impossible. It does tell (the light meter of) the camera what the sensitivity is of the film you’re currently using. You are supposed to set it to the ISO value of your film.

In P-mode (Program mode) (and other “automatic” modes like Av and Tv), the camera uses the ISO information, to set the aperture and shutter speed for you.
It measures the light, reads the ISO you’ve set and then uses a combination of rules (these differ per camera brand) to choose a certain aperture and shutter speed.

In these earlier questions you can learn more about the relationship of ISO, aperture and shutter:

When you are ready to explore more advanced film techniques, you could look into push/pull processing where you use the ISO setting to “fool” the camera and then compensate for it during the processing of your film for creative effect.

Note that, if you use a digital camera, you can set the ISO for every shot as then it’s not a chemical property of the sensor, but a digital value that tells the sensor how much it should amplify the signal it receives.

equipment damage – Is this a good rule to know when i can shoot the sun? “if the sun is not too bright to look at with naked eye, then it’s not too bright for DSLR”

Most of what i have read about this, say that whether or not the sun is bright enough to harm the DSLR, depends on a lot of factors e.g. time of day, cloud cover etc.
For example, i am quite sure , taking a photo of midday sun would be quite harmful for DSLR. But shooting a sunset probably is okay.
So, exactly how harmful is the sun for DSLR ? Is it more of a “its okay once in a while, but do not do it all the time” kind of thing ? What if i shoot a person with the sun in the background? Will that damage the DSLR?

Also, i understand that the human eye’s safety threshold is lower than that of DSLR.
If that is true, then is “The sun is not too bright to look at with naked eye” a sufficient condition to determine when it is Okay to shoot it with DSLR ?
What about with cellphone cameras ?

Should I shoot color or black and white 35mm film to learn photography fundamentals?

I want to practice composition, or the basics of photography in reality. From what I’ve read, some people say shoot color, or only shoot black and white to learn composition right.

From my personal opinion as a beginner, I think if I want to practice composition and play with shadows, angles, etc. shooting in black and white is cheaper and I can practice it more.

I would like to hear your thoughts about what would be the wisest option in terms of practicing composition and photography skills in general.

Also I’m a big fan of color, if you can recommend me a cheap color film it would be great.

astrophotography – How do I eliminate the shake I’m getting using a supertelephoto lens and tripod to shoot the moon?

I agree with @xenoid in that a system that uses Arca-Swiss style dovetail rails (they don’t need to be Arca-Swiss brand name) gives you an advantage because these rails come in various lengths and this lets you move rail forward/aft in the saddle to balance the camera’s center of mass over the tripod to reduce flexure and vibration.

A Benro GH2 is a gimbal head with a 50 lb load capacity… around $350 USD.

But it need not be a gimbal head to work well. Check the load rating for the head you are considering. A Benro B3 or above (e.g. B4, B5) would also be fairly beefy and in the $200-250 USD price range.

Regarding exposure…

Lunar exposures are fairly easy. The base rule is the “Looney 11” rule … at f/11, a good starting point for the shutter speed is the inverse of the ISO. So at ISO 100, that’s 1/100th. At ISO 200 it’s 1/200th. You need not use f/11 … but that’s the f-stop where the shutter speed is the simple inverse of the ISO. Trade f-stops for shutter speed if you prefer to use a different f-stop.

A caveat is to beware atmospheric extinction. This is the notion that while the moon is in sunlight, you are shooting through a lot of atmosphere and it absorbs (extinguishes) some of the light. That’s why it’s Looney 11 instead of Sunny 16 rules. If the moon is very low in the sky (rising or setting) then you’ll have more atmosphere to shoot through, which means more extinction … so you’d need a longer exposure. Also an atmosphere that has more dust, smog, or other particulates will absorb more light and need a longer exposure to compensate.

Here’s a sample image:

Moon exposed using Looney 11 rule

The above was shot at f/11, ISO 100, 1/100th sec.

I used a TeleVue NP101is (4″ apochromatic refractor with an f/5.4 focal ratio and 540mm focal length) combined with a TeleVue 2x PowerMate (an image-space telecentric teleconverter). This gave me an effective focal length of 1080mm at f/10.8 (f/11). The camera was a Canon 60Da (APS-C).